MARK: The Brazilian Pantanal is big. No really, it is!
The World’s largest tropical wetland area is the size of the UK and sits “slap bang” in the heart of South America. A haven for wildlife and blessed with the largest concentration of different bird species anywhere on the planet, it is an amazing, magical place.
The stats are impressive: The Pantanal is home to 1000 different varieties of bird, 400 different fish, 300 mammals and 480 unique reptiles.
A yellow bird
Not much for supper
Forgotten the name of this fella
Steady boy!
To get there though is far from easy, as we found out, finally arriving at our South American Ranch after a long, tortuous, 19 hour overland journey! In fairness, the initial 11 hour overnight bus from Santa Cruz (Bolivia) to the Brazilian border was pretty painless. We managed some sleep curled up in our front seats of the double decker bus aided by extra space as there was just three, rather than the normal four seats across the interior cabin. Furthermore, the broken upper front windscreen was hidden from our initial view behind the obligatory grubby orange bus curtain and the unsubstantiated stains on the seats remained hidden until we got off.
However, when we did manage to stumble down the bus stairs at 0726 and into the cold morning air, our ordeal was far from over. Ahead of us was a long windy queue of dishevelled, weary bodies, Adidas and Puma tracksuits predominating. We joined this human line and queued for two hours to clear Bolivian customs. Exit stamp obtained in passport, a short 300m walk through “no mans land”. And then, guess what? Yep another two hours queue, this time to navigate Brazilian customs. All sorts of confusion prevailed as fellow travellers exited the dingy customs office. Some people had entry stamps in their passport, some were without and some lucky blighters had a passport stamp and white paper exit form. This was the longest ever immigration/border crossing of my 52 years. I only had a stamp – so at time of writing, am still not sure whether the rest of my life means I will be incarcerated for time immemorial in some Brazilian hell hole.
In and out stamp
Planning our next adventure….
Fortunately, there was a Mercedes Mini-Bus on the “other side”. Unfortunately, its presence heralded a further three hour trip through the Brazilian countryside. It was cold. It was wet. It should have been 30C+. It wasn’t. It was more like 16C. What is happening to the World weather????
All went reasonably well until the van pulled off the main road and then the bumping associated with a mud road started. It continued for twenty minutes. A sharp right turn on to a small track really did start to shake our bodies to the core, but fortunately this lasted for just a few minutes as we drew up alongside a “safari type” truck. Just one more leg through the wetlands. “Forty minutes and we’ll be there….” came the cry from Isaac our guide.
On safari
He was right. In 42 minutes, 30 seconds we arrived at Passo de Lontra. A few buildings in the middle of a raised green area, surrounded by water. We’d arrived in the Pantanal proper, a friendly Caiman smiled at the group as we grabbed our bags.
Caiman/alligator – either way they still bite
Sarah was pretty cold by this stage, not helped by a really bad head cold. So we took one look at the row of hammocks in the windswept communal dormitory and decided we’d prefer the relative comfort of our own room for two days. The upgrade fee of £50 was quickly paid, guaranteeing us a breeze block built “cell” with convector heated shower and 25 year old TV.
Next day the weather was better and surprisingly few degrees warmer. It was therefore time, after watching a beautiful sunrise, to saddle up and head through the marshland on horseback.
Sunrise
Invaded by goats outside our luxury pent-house
I felt sure the cowboys wouldn’t find a horse big enough for a 100kg super heavyweight – but they did. And do you know what, I’m glad they did. The experience of being on a horse for the first time in 40 years was great fun especially as the procession of nags waded through murky water up to five feet deep, wildlife all around.
Off we went… I managed a trot and got wet
Beautiful countryside
The final furlong….
My “Uncle Crisp” – who is actually Uncle Chris but the name stuck thanks to Joe – visited the Pantanal area recently and as an avid bird enthusiast came back very excited. We could see why as there were so many different varieties of feathered friends ranging from stunning kingfishers and brightly coloured woodpeckers through to unbelievable Guinness toucans and pairs of brilliant blue macaws.
Friendly
Very friendly
A member of the woodpecker family
Little red chap
Toucan play at that game!
One of five different kingfishers seen
This one chirped a lot
Tall
Yellow eyed woodpecker
A robin?
But birds also share this amazing landscape with over 40,000,000 predatory caiman. Yes you did read right – 40 million of the alligator snappers, the biggest of which we saw was in excess of three metres. I was particularly thrilled to discover quite by chance when reviewing various shots, that one of the caiman had a large dragon fly perched right on the end of its nose. One of my better shots…..
We encountered many of these fascinating creatures who in the main were more frightened of us than we were of them….
Perfectly formed
Love the dragon fly on this boy’s nose
Curious – this taken from 3 metres away
Indeed we saw a lot of different animals on our three day expedition including anteaters, capybara (the largest rhodent in the World), marsh deer and peccaries (wild pigs).
Capybara on the move
Wonderful creature – the giant ant-eater
We also caught some fish! About 12 of us, complete with bamboo canes, fishing wire and hooks, attempted to land some piranhas for tea, hanging off a bridge some 15 miles from our ranch base. The piranhas didn’t play ball, but some snake fish did and I’m pleased to say that yours truly caught three of the five fish the group landed!
Like kids – great fun
Look at the size of that..
Talking of water, a couple of days after we left the Pantanal, and en-route to the Iguassu Falls (Brazil/Argentina/Paraguay border), we had a most enjoyable experience, snorkelling in some of the clearest water anywhere in the World at a place called Bonito. Limestone filtered water surges from a spring at a rate of 10,000 litres a minute. You jump in complete with wet suit, snorkel and mask and then serenely float down the river marvelling at the clarity of vision – 60 metres no less – and the myriad of fish that are happy to share their natural aquarium.
Relaxing
Beautifully clear
Not sure what sort of fish this is…
and relax….
That was pretty special, but nothing compared to the Iguassu Falls which border Brazil and Argentina. We’ll gloss over the awful 14 hour bus ride to get there which was truly horrendous. Instead, I’ll focus on the fantastic helicopter ride and walk down by these amazing waterfalls – in pictures only.
Up, up and away
Within ten minutes we were there..
One of my better attempts
Argentina on the right and Brazil nearside
And down on the ground the views were just as good
Another Rainbow….
And that’s really just about it, for this blog and MASTERS20152016.COM. We may have time for another Blog before we return on 10 May – just not sure how the time will pan out between now and then. We do also have a mega blog that needs to be completed, which shares many tips, thoughts and views about our 9 months on the road, but I am not sure quite when and where this will be published….
In the meantime one final idea. If you would like to ask Sarah and me any questions about our Round the World Trip, add them to the comments section on this blog and we will endeavour to weave them in to our final posting.
Stay safe and see you very, very soon.
"MASTERS" 
Hi Mark and Sarah
where has the time gone…..so quickly and a safe journey home. A question I adore seeing sunsets….The passing of another day. Where has been the best and why.
Best wishes to you both.
Sue x
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Now that is a clever question – would have expected nothing less from you Sue….. could answer that straight away, but won’t….. you will have to wait to the next blog. Will of course though consult the boss so we have joint agreement….. Hope to see you soon and trust that your “new job” is working out well. DVV loss….
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What can I add to the questions others have asked? Will your sedulous travels have made a difference to your future plans and dreams? Safe travels home, hoping that the conclusion to your travels is as wonderful as the start. X
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Hi KT…… liking the use of the word sedulous….and thanks for the question, which will of course be answered in “Any Answers….” see you on the 16th – DON’T BE LATE.
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So having slept on it I have two more challenging questions for you both; Firstly what do you suppose the true cost of your trip has been? [Idon’t mean Pounds, shillings and pence either but I think you know that] Secondly what has been the value of the trip to you both? [that might be two different answers?] Glad to here about the ‘thingy’ Warmest regards Ian Sent from my iPad
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I think I know the question you are answering…. think. And certainly question two is easier…. leave it with us. Looks like one final missive after all……. M and S
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Mark and Sarah, it has been absolutely wonderful to be able to follow you on the blog, with the lovely photographs from wherever you were. And a real shame if it has to stop. But, last blog or not… Have a safe journey home. And we will be looking forward to see you soon. Astrid, Andy and Caitlin
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Hi A and A…. how’s you like? Thanks for reading, thanks for all your comments and skyping and looking forward to visiting your new “mansion” in Northumberland…. best wishes M and S
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As always, lavishly illustrated with quality photography. I take it you are not quite the ornithologist that ,”Uncle Crisp” is?!!
Apart from “which bit do you think you enjoyed the most?”, I think my other question would be ” How do you feel about returning to the UK, to “normality”?” I’m sure you will be glad to be home in many ways, but how to focus the mind on the daily tasks, that may seem a bit mundane or tame after such an adventure?
Look forward to seeing you and hearing more in due course. Safe trip home.
Regards
Frank
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Thanks Frank for your comments and indeed your question. Think we can answer that one and will endeavour to do so in the next blog before we return…. Hope you are well… M
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Can’t believe you will be home next week! Wonderful pics as always but not sure how I would have dealt with all the queuing or the never ending bus journeys. I guess I have a question many people wil be asking. What next – both in terms of travel and choice of future employment. I somehow feel the corporate world will not sit comfortably after all you have both seen and experienced. Get well soon Sarah. And as always, travel safe.
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Hello Mary…. a very good question! Can we answer it? Possibly! Time will tell – check out the next blog.. Many thanks for your support over the months. S and M
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Just thinking when you come to make a book or two, or three of all the pictures, you will be able to make one just of the birds you have come across. Don’t have a question; just in awe of the whole exercise that you have masterminded. Just amazed that the nine months have gone so quickly. Just mind blown by the places and more importantly the people you have met. Just had one hell of a ride alongside you both. Thanks for sharing, thanks for taking the trouble to write and describe. If you catch the bus into Camberley when you get back you will think you are in first, if not executive class. Just been a ball; can’t believe it’s nearly all over. Travel safe.
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Looking forward to catching that bus Malcom. Thanks for being – according to the stats – our Number 1 contributor over the past nine months. M and S
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We hope that Uncle ‘Crisp’ has been able to identify all the birds. Once again, lovely pictures.
Which has been your favourite country and what difference has this tour made in both your lives?
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Waiting for Crisp to show….. Good questions “Mum” – will try and answer in the next blog M and S
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Dear Mark and Sarah I truly hope there is time for one more blog These last few days I have felt the absence of contact But boy does this blog make up for it I would love that snorkelling drift downriver (and the helo flight, albeit brave in a single engined job) You have asked for questions, so I have one although it is rather selfish; Have you needed to use the multi tool I gave you? After two episodes of “House of Cards” with Kevin Spacey Series 3 and a bottle of half decent Viognier I await your response in a mellow mood Love to you both Ian Sent from my iPad
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Ah the “thingy” as we cal it. Presently sitting infront of me…… yes, can def’ answer that question and indeed give you an update in to your other two presents as well. Enjoy the wine! M and S
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I really do think you could give Bill Bryson run for his money and donate the money to charity
I fly in 6 hours ahead of your into T5 on 10Th. Would have been great if it had been within 30 minutes of each other
Hope Sarahs Head Cold has gone. I know as I am frantically drugged up to my eyes to get rid of one before flying
Kevin
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Hi Kevin – where are you going? Sarah’s cold still with us. Looking forward to seeing you and catching up on all the goss. M
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