Author Archives: Mark and Sarah - MASTERS!

VIETNAM: BOTTOM GEAR SPECIAL!

MARK: Sarah in black leathers! Hanging on to the back of a Kawasaki 250cc, or screaming along the streets of Frome in the middle of the night, astride a throbbing Honda. Hard to believe? Yeah, I found it hard to get my head around the first time I heard as well.  But that’s my racey wife for you, full of surprises.

Full of surprises - that's Sarah!

Ready for the off!

As for me, well I’ve been on the back of a bike just once before, back in 1981 and I vowed “never again” as I was scared witless on the outskirts of Darlington.  My then “landlord” owned a high powered yellow bike – I can’t remember the make of it.  One evening he persuaded me to join him “for a little trip”.  It started off OK as we headed down the bypass towards the A1(M).  And then OMG, he opened the throttle. I nearly fell off as we reached speeds well in excess of 100 mph, my knuckles white, my light blue drain pipe jeans soon brown with fear…

Fast forward to 2015 and beep beep, beep peep.

Welcome to Hanoi the capital city of Vietnam.  Scooters and motorbikes everywhere.  Very few cars on the road because of punitive Communist Government taxes, just a chaotic sea of motorised two wheelers everywhere. On the road, on the pavement, in the parks, everywhere!

Hanoi is a rapidly growing city. Motorbikes the main form of transport.  You take your life in your hands as you attempt, in small groups to cross pot-holed streets, always walking, never running. It’s great fun if you have the bottle.

According to official statistics, in 1996 there were only 4 million motorbikes in Vietnam.  But now, driven by rapid economic growth, there are that number alone in the capital and 39 million nationwide, meaning that most adults between 18 and 65 owns a motorbike.

It’s how everyone gets about. Even Top Gear was here!  Messrs Clarkson, Hammond and May bought three scooters and rode them 1,000 miles from Saigon in the south, via Hue to Hanoi.  We’ve had great fun watching the first episode – check out the link to YouTube below and see the ride along the stunning coast which we have just completed in reverse https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1zfuBgCUqY

Nearly as beautiful as Whitby

Nearly as beautiful as Whitby – Lang Co Bay – fav’ of Yorkshire lad, Jeremy Clarkson

During our stay in Hanoi, we saw some amazing two wheels sights.  So, ladies and gentlemen I give you the Vietnamese Two Wheeler Awards 2015.

Most overloaded – five seconds after this shot was taken, the green bags fell off narrowly missing Sarah

Most overloaded – five seconds after this shot was taken, the green bags fell off narrowly missing Sarah (hidden)

Most vegetables carried

Most vegetables carried

Most people onboard – FOUR NOT THREE – can you see?

Most people onboard – FOUR NOT THREE – can you see?

Most hidden rider

Most hidden rider

Stupidist rider

Stupidist rider

Most pizzas

Most pizzas

The 16th November saw us leave Hanoi after returning direct from Harlong Bay(100 miles east).  We literally jumped straight on to the 13 hour overnight sleeper to Hue in central Vietnam.  First class sleeper bunks and first class little furry friends who had decided to hitch a lift to go and see their relatives 450 miles further south.

On arrival, Cham, our happy smiley “same same, but different” guide, suggested that the Group might like to take a “motor-bike trip” through the countryside, taking in Paddy Fields, a Buddhist Monastery for lunch, then on to Hue’s Citadel, Pergola and local market.  Much to the surprise of everybody, including me, Sarah’s hand was the first to rise to confirm she was up for the day long excursion. My hand stayed in my pocket for a while.  But with everybody else saying yes, including a 76 year old American called Elliott, I reluctantly agreed to go.

Tang, the Team Leader could see I was nervous and suggested I rode on the back of his Honda Scooter – hardly a powerful machine, but quick enough for me.  The brown crash helmet barely fitted my big head, looking like a round tin bowl on my weathered face, squeezing my cheeks so I looked like a Michelin Man.  And then we were off, weaving through the streets of Hue at speeds of up to 25mph, fifteen scooters and bikes in a snake formation heading for the Paddy fields, the wind blowing through what little hair I have left.

After a couple of hours of visiting the rice museum and various other sites, we arrived at a Monastery for lunch, with Monks all around us riding scooters as if they belonged to some strange religious “Hell’s” chapter.  But boy could those boys cook. A great vegetarian lunch, concluding with delicious pieces of Dragon fruit.

Highway to Heaven - Monkey business

Highway to Heaven – Monkey business

Tummies full, we headed off again, through the dusty streets, the sun high in the sky, the temperature well into the 90s.  It was a lovely trip and then BANG. Historical reality struck once more.

Tang, made a swift right turn and we were suddenly riding down small dirt tracks through a forest.  We really needed trial bikes, not scooters.  Tree roots everywhere, steep hills which the old Honda barely managed to get up.  After a few minutes all became clear.  Two war bunkers which looked like large “Pill Boxes”, on the highest point, overlooking the sweet sounding, but anything but, Perfume River and the City of Hue.

Off piste

Off piste

Silence!

The history lesson unfolded in front of eyes and through Tang’s broken but understandable English.

During the Vietnam War, Hue’s central location – near the border between the North and South – put it in a really vulnerable position. In the Tet Offensive, during the Battle of Hue, the city suffered considerable damage and terrible atrocities, due to a combination of the American bombing of historic buildings held by the North Vietnamese, and the subsequent massacre committed by the communist forces. It was one of the longest and bloodiest battles of the Vietnam War, beginning on January 31 1968, and lasting 26 days. During the following years, dozens of mass graves were discovered in and around Hue. Thousands of victims were found bound, tortured and clubbed to death.

The scenery was beautiful and it was hard to believe what had happened as we all looked on.

Hard pill to swallow

Hard pill to swallow

It was somewhat ironic, but entirely appropriate when we returned back to our hotel via a Graveyard, before re-joining the hurly-burly of modern day Hue. The traffic on the main bridge, a carpet of scooters as people travelled home at the end of a long day.

Dead end?

Dead end?

Rush hour

Rush hour in Hue

But I want to leave on a positive note and again a brief story about motorbikes.

Yesterday (Wednesday) we arrived in the beautiful, laid back city of Hoi Ann – where the Top Gear Boys had their suits tailor-made during their trip through Vietnam.  Sarah was helping Ann and Chris buy new business suits .  So I decided to go and get my hair cut.  I asked a man, using sign language if he knew a barber.  He beckoned me on to the back of his bike and we sped off, through the market, chickens running for their lives.  Five minutes later and we arrived at Mr Thang’s the Barber.  He understood what I wanted, but then decided to give me a cut-throat razor wet shave, ear wax, nose/ear/eyebrow trim and head massage.  It was called a head service and cost a mere £4.50.  I gave him a tip of 50p and he seemed very happy, so much so, he went to his garage, got his bike out and drove me back to Sarah, over two miles away in the city centre.  Brilliant service and proof, if proof were needed that bikers are wheely wheely nice people.

Don't laugh Dave Parker

Don’t laugh Dave Parker

 

 

Categories: South East Asia Blog

Exploitation or Salvation? The jury’s still out on this one…

MARK: Bump bump, bumpity bump.  Close to seven hours in the back of our Laos mini-van.  Windows wobbling, stomachs shaking, scenery stunning.

We’d completed nearly 300km, through beautiful mountainous countryside.  The “highway” was a winding road, full of potholes.   Members of the group were feeling distinctly ill as motion sickness threated.

But this marathon journey did have an upside.  The view from the toilet at the lunch stop was superb and arguably had the most picturesque location for a washbasin anywhere in the World. Appropriate captions welcomed!

Loo with a view

Loo with a view

Washroom to remember – can you think of a better caption?

Washroom to remember – can you think of a better caption?

At 4.35pm, a 5km sign for the village of Ban Na Douang came in to view and the road to our overnight homestay suddenly got a whole lot worse, as tarmac was replaced by mud.  Chickens, pigs and dogs wandered everywhere, chased by young children.

With a jolt the van finally stopped, the door opened and our air conditioned bubble was quickly burst by a wave of steamy heat.  The temperature outside close to 35C.

I didn’t know what to expect.  Sarah and I, together with the rest of the group were staying overnight with Laos families to experience “life with the locals”.  But I’d read media reports in the past of how this sort of exercise can be staged managed by Tour Companies. How local people were often exploited with somebody, somewhere making a lot of money.  So straight away my cynical head was on as we were introduced to our host for the night – a middle aged “smiley” lady called Song Ting, who spoke no English.

Song Ting and Sarah in front of the family photo montage

Song Ting and Sarah in front of the family photo montage – note the local skirt (shorts underneath)

We trotted off behind her to our homestay, a short 5 minute walk along the dusty main street.

Rush hour 1

Rush hour 1

Rush hour 2. They learn to drive much earlier than the UK...

Rush hour 2. They learn to drive much earlier than the UK…

Shoes off, we were invited inside…

Outside Song Ting's house

Outside Song Ting’s house

A large, tiled communal room greeted us.  In one corner a couple of seats positioned in front of a large, old fashioned TV – their son, adorned with a football shirt from some minor German Division III League side, watching what appeared to be an American movie.

Dragged the poor boy away from the telly so I could take this shot

Dragged the poor boy away from the telly so I could take this shot

Our bedroom was in the corner, the door creaked open and inside three single beds, each with mosquito net, together with a wardrobe, a fan and a single light.  The Ritz it was not. Through the small 3 foot barred glassless window, a small fire could be seen.  Next door neighbours were having a bonfire and our room was directly down-wind.  The kids started waving and smiling. The smoke now a minor inconvenience.

Next door neighbours - if I had Phil Whitby's air gun, the rooster would be no more!

Next door neighbours – if I had Phil Whitby’s air gun, the rooster would be no more!

Further investigation of the house revealed a motorbike parked in one room, a few further doors we could not see behind and a bathroom consisting of a non-flush western style toilet and a small shower that pumped out cold water – this better than most houses.  We unpacked quickly and headed back to the Village Chief’s house, ready to undertake a walk around the village.  Before we started, I had a quick word with a couple of people from the Laos National Tourist Board who happened to be “in town” conducting a reccie, prior to a major Travel Writer/Travel Journalist familiarisation trip the next day.   I was told by one official that this was a “model homestay project” in Laos and they were hoping for positive international press coverage.

A village walk for our group started as the sun began to set.  Sweat dripped down the inside of our shirts.

We came across a lady aged 96 making sticky rice, another woman selling green chilli peppers at $1 a kilo, and kids running around carrying water.  Men gazed from the inside of simple wooden and breeze block houses, their white eyes shining through the fading light.

Sticky, sticky, very sticky

Sticky, sticky, very sticky – this lady is 96!

Just $1

Just $1

Round the corner a group of children aged between 7 and 13 were playing football on the scrubland in front of the school. Time for the “Allstars” to take them on.   Brendan a 6ft 4in US basket-ball player in defence, Robbie left back and Chris from Wales playing a central midfield role.  Chris Number 2 played at right back, whilst James made a few tasty challenges on a couple of ten year olds. I ran around a lot, ineffectively, before nearly dying of a heart attack.  We won 2-1, but it was close, with sport yet again proving to be a universal language.

Vive la France - the Primary School

Vive la France – the Primary School

We only played for 15 minutes, but my “Jungle” North Face shirt had turned from light brown to dark brown.  You could ring it out, it was that wet from sweat.  Even a large bottle of Laos beer failed to quench my thirst as we headed off for dinner in a large room.  This just did not seem right.  We ate by ourselves, no locals in sight.  Not what I had bargained for as I looked up and saw a poster of what appeared to be the Laos Communist Party, hanging on the wall by two bits of yellowing Sellotape.

The meal was simple but pleasant as the sound of children playing outside could clearly be heard. The decibel level increased and as soon as we had finished, just before 7.45pm we headed out of the communal room, to an area of grass where over 100 children were running around.  They were here to dance, show us how to dance and then dance with us.  Everything from traditional local music to Gangnam Style.  We all took part, the kids loved it, their Mothers (only one man) looking on.  After about 45 minutes we were shattered and soaked, the mosquitos having a field day biting my sweaty calves.  The kids then quietly made a circle and we handed out books and pens – a small gesture to the village of our gratitude for their hospitality.

Strictly Come Dancing Laos Style

Strictly Come Dancing Laos Style

It was time for bed as the villagers, we were told, were often up and about at 5.00am, so we made our way back to our homestay, opened the front door only to be greeted by a man wearing greeny coloured underpants (and not much else) reclining on the couch. Sarah beat a hasty retreat to our bedroom and safety, jumping underneath her mossy net. Lights out.

It was time for bed as the villagers, we were told, were often up and about at 5.00am, so we made our way back to our homestay, opened the front door only to be greeted by a man wearing greeny coloured underpants (and not much else) reclining on the couch. Sarah beat a hasty retreat to our bedroom and safety, jumping underneath her mossy net. Lights out.

Sarah safe from the man with green underpants - but not from mosquitoes

Sarah safe from the man with the green underpants – but not from mosquitoes

Next morning the rooster woke us up every hour from about 2.00am, there was something seriously wrong with his alarm clock.  At 6.00am we got up, showered and then said our goodbyes to Song Ting, writing in her Visitors Book before we left.

Breakfast was again in the communal room – bread, eggs and coffee – the staple tourist diet in Laos.

By 7.30am our bags were packed and on the mini-bus for the short transfer in to the town of Vang Vieng our next overnight stay.

It was then that various questions came to mind.

  • Why didn’t we eat with the local people in their houses?
  • Why wasn’t there more local interaction with the families?
  • Did the locals mind having tourists around?
  • Did the children really enjoy dancing with a lot of sweaty travellers?
  • Were the local people paid a fair amount for our accommodation?
  • Was this just some huge intrusive exercise for the benefit of “experience thirsty” western tourists?
  • Was somebody, somewhere other than the locals making a lot of money?

I put these and other questions to our local Guide who went someway to reassuring my concerns.  He said it was work in progress regarding increased interaction with families and having the opportunity to eat in smaller groups at individual host accommodation.  The locals didn’t mind the tourists as they had seen improvements to their village and increased income which they were very happy with, bearing in mind that field workers only earn $2/3 a day!  The children liked the tourists and were particularly keen to play with smart phones and tablets! He went on to say that there was open dialogue between the Village Chief and the local company who had set up the homestay programme, which in turn was contracted by our tour operator.  This was open and positive and had created a waiting list of local house owners wanting to be part of the Homestay Programme, although they were only going to increase the number to 12 (from 10) to safeguard getting too big.

But, as I write this blog on another bumpy, noisy bus heading to the capital of Laos – Vientiane – the jury is still out as far as I am concerned.  Time will tell.

In the meantime, as we leave today for Hanoi (Vietnam), Laos has to go down as the most picturesque and beautiful country we have ever visited.  So we leave you on a positive note and some postcard images. Do consider going soon if you want to see Laos in all its finery before being overrun by tourists.  As for the Homestay project, well I need to check back again in a couple of years.  The Jury is still out!

Postcard from Laos 1

Postcard from Laos 1

Postcard from Laos 2

Postcard from Laos 2

THE END

THE END

Categories: South East Asia Blog

BEAUTY AND THE BOMB

MARK AND SARAH:  A big thank you to the many people who kindly commented on our last blog Cabbages and Condoms. According to the online stats and the feedback we have received it was by far the most “well received” blog to date.  It was written during a bit of a low period, but thanks to you, our spirits are now fully restored and we’re back in serious traveller mode.  Talking of back, Sarah’s is much better (thanks Mags) and now, all’s well with our World.

Thanks for all your kind words!

Thanks for all your kind words!

But a few days ago it was a slightly different story…

MARK: The overnight sleeper train chugged along at just over 50mph, swaying from side to side.  Bangkok was now three hours behind us, Chiang Mai in northern Thailand ten hours ahead. The £4.50 bargain alarm clock bought from Tesco’s showed it was 10.00pm on Monday 2nd November 2015.

The journey was uneventful.  A means of transport.   The toilets were clean, they didn’t smell of wee.  The food served wasn’t bad – a bit bland.  The bunk beds were clean and relatively comfortable.  A cockroach made an appearance, but it was bored and decided pretty quickly to go back to its hole not to be seen again.  Demi was pleased! There was no real excitement.  It was all a bit flat really.

The word flat aptly sums up our two days in Bangkok.  We probably should have spent just one night there – like the song said!  Flat I guess because we’d been there before and we both realised why we rarely go back to the same place twice.  Seen it done it and then move on to somewhere new as boredom soon sets in.  This the mantra that best works for us.  Deviate and it doesn’t seem to work.

Sadly, things excitement wise didn’t improve much next day in Chiang Mai, the back-packers Mecca, 500 miles north of the capital.

Our early morning arrival coincided with a timely and somewhat “spooky” FACEBOOK Messenger note from John Hodson, Reading Supporter and International Swedish Bank Manager.

“I wondered whether you might get to a point where you got almost de-sensitised to new sights and sounds because you had seen just so many new things?”

At that precise moment the answer was probably yes.  The Chiang Mai market was ok, the park quite nice.  The Wat Phra That Doi Suthep Temple was interesting enough, but again it was all a bit samey.  If you’ve seen one temple, you haven’t quite seen them all but…. Sorry Barry!

A rare peak at some Monks

A rare peak at some Monks

So 30 hours later we were glad to move on again, having wondered if we should have been to the Lady Boy show, or learnt what some “ladies” do with ping-pong balls at one of the more seedier night clubs.  Perhaps this would have spiced things up a bit.

Heading 200 miles further north, in two brand new Toyota mini-busses we travelled to the “Golden Triangle” where Thailand borders Mynamur (Burma) and Laos.  Along the way we stopped at Wat Rong Khun a mind blowing white and silver temple that appears from distance to be made of porcelain.  On closer examination, you see that it is made out of whitewash and reflective chips of mirror.  Still impressive. In my Trip Advisor report I described it as Disneyland meeting Buddhaland, and indeed most reviews tend to agree that it is magnificent piece of art with religious connotations.  I half expected Snow White to appear and walk down the main steps.  She didn’t and we continued our journey to Chiang Khong, the light fast disappearing with another stunning sunset visible through the dirty windows.

Buddhaland meets Disneyland. Snow White, where are you?

Buddhaland meets Disneyland. Snow White, where are you?

And then suddenly at dinner that night, like a switch, the buzz and excitement came flooding back.  The Group we are travelling with began to gel.  I took part in “who can eat the hottest chilli dish” with Robby a lawyer from New York.

“I wouldn’t want to talk to you for four hours sober” – One of Robbie’s more interesting one liners…

“I wouldn’t want to talk to you for four hours sober” – One of Robby’s more interesting one liners…

Meanwhile the mossies began to bite as we sat high above the Mekong River, with Laos just 500 yards away across the fast flowing moonlight water. With anticipation and excitement, we retired to our jungle lodge bedroom with the thought that tomorrow we would cross the border.

First light and Laos, a new country.  A new visa and a new passport stamp to add to our growing collection.  “Welcome to Laos Mr Mark St John” the border guard said.  I hadn’t the heart to tell him St. John was my middle name.  We were here and I had my Visa!  Mist was rising from the valley floor in the early morning sun, the now 300 yard wide Mekong the only thing to divide Thailand from Laos.

A quick transfer in an old van, eight of us in the back and luggage on the roof hanging on with no straps.

And then wow the River.  Clean air.  Stunning beauty.  Jagged limestone cliffs.  Bright green jungle and vegetation all around.  Our boat a three metre wide, 25 metre long, former cargo/fishing vessel that had been decked out with teak tables and what appeared to be seats taken from the inside of a Mitsubishi Shogun.  This our new home (during the day) for 48 hours as we were to travel along the snaking Mekong, through stunning gorges, to Luang Prabang the UNESCO protected home of 4,000 Buddhas, 250km downstream.

Stunning beauty

Stunning beauty

4,000 Buddhas in a limestone cave

4,000 Buddhas in a limestone cave

Beauty all around

Beauty all around

Laos, a landlocked country* (can you name the five countries that borders Laos – see end of blog for answer) is simply stunning in terms of scenery.  Our leisurely voyage, a cross between sailing down the Nile, the Yangtze and the Rhine whilst floating through a Caribbean island landscape of lush palms, banana plantations and dark green vines that twist and seem to strangle dapple green trees.

Four hours in and the front of the boat was beached on beautiful sand near the inside of a wide meander.  It was our chance to see first-hand a remote jungle village. The village people (no pun intended China Group) had little money except one house that strangely sported a big sat’ dish.  The rest, built on stilts, were basic with largely dried mud floors.  But, the children smiled.  They were loved and cared for.  They were clearly happy.  We were happy.

Popper round to watch Arsenal play Tottenham

Popped round to watch Arsenal play Tottenham

Built on stilts so no rats get in

Built on stilts so no rats get in

Back on the boat and a couple of cool cans of Laos beer went down all too easily. As 6.00pm approached the sun disappeared behind the mountains as our group of 15 arrived at the Mekong Jungle Lodge for our overnight stay.  Memorable views in the evening and then again next morning as elephants bathed on the far banks of the river.  Could this be Paradise?

Husband and wife team

Husband and wife team

... and in the evening - view from our window

… and in the evening – view from our window

.... and in the morning...

…. and in the morning…

Then bang.  My mind switched as I read an online article.

I knew the people of Laos were “victims” of the Vietnam War which ended 40 years ago.  But I didn’t fully realise what that still meant in 2015.

This country of beauty has the distinction of being the world’s most heavily bombed nation. During the War, over half a million American bombing missions dropped more than 2 million tons of ordnance on this small country. That’s the equivalent of one planeload every 8 minutes, 24 hours a day, for 9 years.

B-52 over Laos

B-52 over Laos

Terrible stats, but worse still was the fact that most of the ordnance were anti-personnel cluster bombs, with each cluster shell containing hundreds of individual bomblets, about the size of a tennis ball. Thirty percent of these shells DIDN’T detonate! That’s estimated to be some 288 million cluster munitions plus 75 million unexploded bombs which presently sit across 18 Laotian provinces. They pose a real threat to children, who think the bombs are toys…

In the last ten years only 1 million bombs have been destroyed with over 20,000 deaths and serious injuries since the end of the war.

Brendan, a really nice American guy on our tour commented that it wasn’t America’s finest hour.

Indiscriminate bombing that killed thousands and still does to this day.  What a legacy.

I could go on…. I won’t because this trip is about the here and now.  But, digging a little deeper beneath the surface reveals what travel for me is all about.  A random mix of history, geography and biology – ‘A’ Level text now finally coming alive and real. A unique experience.  In this particular case a heady cocktail of beauty and the bomb literally living side by side.

As we continue or journey through Indo-China, this will doubtless be a recurring theme in Vietnam and Cambodia. History from my lifetime which I sadly remember.

But for now I want to remember the beauty.  Flat no more, Laos has indelibly burnt itself in to our memory.

PLEASE CLICK ON LINK BELOW TO SEE VIDEO

*OF COURSE YOU KNEW – LAOS is bordered by China, Burma, Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam.  Give yourself five house points if you got all five countries.

Categories: South East Asia Blog

Cabbages and Condoms – it’s all about the feelings!

Feelings!  What do you think of when you hear that word?

Andy Williams crooning in 1975?  Does it make you think of pain, for example when you slip a disk or break an arm? Or what about sad, mad or glad feelings?

It’s an interesting word and one that Sarah and I have talked about a lot over the past two or three days.

It all started when I looked at Sarah’s face a couple of days ago, whilst waiting in Hong Kong Airport’s ultra-new Departure Lounge on our way to Bangkok. I knew there was something wrong.  Clearly she was still in pain from having slipped her disk, but there was a look which told me something else was on her mind.

It was a different face from the one I’d seen for the past three weeks in China.

If there is one brilliant thing I’ve learnt travelling with Mrs Bailey over the past 9 weeks, it is re -discovering what I found so endearing about her nearly 30 years ago when we first met.  Sarah is a very funny, charismatic person, who brightens up a room simply by being there.  She gets on well with everyone, is always positive and is a real nice person to have around.

Sarah enjoying her Yangtze cruise with Linda and Jan (right)

Sarah enjoying her Yangtze cruise with Linda and Jan (right)

smiley smiley Mrs Smiley

smiley smiley Mrs Smiley at the Panda Park

I have to confess that these qualities I’d taken for granted.  My selfish, work-focussed little World, has meant for the past few years I have been looking too far in the past searching for answers, or trying to work out what the future might hold rather than concentrating on the here and now and what I actually have.  The vogue world today is “mindfulness” and there’s a lot to be said for it.

Living in the moment with the Buddha

Living in the moment with the Buddha

“I feel really sad that we are leaving this tour group” Sarah said quietly, looking down at her shoes.  “What do you mean?” was my quick, staccato, Alpha male response. “They were really nice people.  Linda and Court are lovely, Mags is such a laugh.  The Aussie girls are so much fun…..” She then went through the Group one by one highlighting individual positive traits.

MASTERS with their warriors

MASTERS with their warriors

Probably the best guide we have ever come across – take a bow Carina from G Adventures

Probably the best guide we have ever come across – take a bow Carina from G Adventures

It was clear that there was now a void as we both watched the giant Emirates A380 pull up at the stand, ready to disgorge 600 punters and pick up 600 more, for our next two and a half hours flight down to Thailand.

But there was also something else bothering Sarah.  Yes, we were leaving behind some great people, however a wider train of thought was clearly in her mind.

The last time we’d been at this exact Departure Lounge was six years ago with our son Joe who was 17 at the time.  Just like then, we’d been heading down to Bangkok.  But “little” Joe wasn’t there this time.  He was back at home and as all Mum’s do, they worry and care about their son/daughter no matter what age they are.  We both talked about our last ever family holiday to Thailand which had been a really good one with lots of stand-out moments. Joe was “mistaken” numerous times for Prince Harry (the ginger connection), the celebration (after down-loading online) of his A/S Level Grade ‘A’ in Geography at the interestingly named Cabbages and Condoms restaurant.  How we travelled deep into the jungle on the Burmese border re-tracing the upper reaches of the historic World War II Railway along the River Kwai heading for “Hell Fire Pass”.  Good times and past times.

Joe - remember the reclining Buddha?

Joe – remember the reclining Buddha?

But what was he doing now?  Was he ok?  How was his work going?  Was the house still standing?  Had the cleaning been done?  How was Ella…? How was he getting on with Jack? It was a brain in overdrive mode, reminiscent of when you wake up in the black, early hours of a new morning, mind whirling.

Lads (Joe right –Jack left)

Lads (Joe left – Jack right)

Certainly our travelling to-date has given us many highs.  But there are lows as well.  And two months into our RTW trip and with just under a quarter of our trip completed, this was one of those low times – perhaps more for Sarah in this instance rather than me, but I understood fully where she was coming from.  You do miss people. The constant travelling gives you plenty of time to think and the space afforded makes you realise what you value.  Feelings and senses are heightened.  The powerful cocktail of smell, sound, taste and sight are vivid and tangible. You think in a different way. You react in different ways.

“…and in the morning, we will remember....

“…and in the morning, we will remember….”

This trip is so unlike any traditional two week holiday we’d ever taken before.  That might sound a rather stupid and obvious thing to say.  But you don’t have this “winding down” and “winding up” feeling as you literally count the days before you return to the reality of work.  Here in Chiang Mai (north Thailand), neither of us had a clue what day of the week it was today.  We had forgotten it was November.  Temperatures of 34C and blue skies fool you in terms of dates, times and seasons.

Mr James Duckworth recently sent us a very kind email with an update on his news.  It was a very good read.  I always think that if I can “hear” the person through the words they write, then they have a mastery of English.  James, I hear you.  One of the questions Mr D posed was: “I am curious to know how easily you have adapted to an itinerant (meant in the best possible way) lifestyle which is such a huge difference to the day to day work lifestyle that you had before. Do you worry about things or do you just worry about different things?” 

My abbreviated response was:  “For the first time in my life, I am worry and stress free.  A big thing for me.  I do get stressed when the laptop throws a wobbly because our life is on it, but that is all.  I live for the moment and never get that Sunday night feeling anymore.  Successive Monday’s have seen us flying over Everest, walking on the Great Wall and seeing the Teracotta Warriors, which is so weird.  Yesterday (Monday) we were listening to Radio 2 via the laptop and heard the travel reports about queues on the M3….  The average length of stay is two nights so you are always on the go and it can therefore be tiring but you soon adapt.  I don’t care what happens when we come back, where we will be or what we will do…”

Essentially it is all about this feeling of freedom and gratefulness.  You quickly realise that there are so many people worse off than you.  When you see a family living on a hard shoulder of a motorway, a man with no arms and legs. A person that has never ventured more than 100 miles from home.  It can blow your mind, if you let it, or it can have a positive effect as you accept and realise.  I hope the latter continues to happen.

I have re-read and re-written this blog a number of times.  It has not been an easy one to write.  But I needed to write it.  The fact that it does not flow quite how I would like it to flow, please forgive me.  The switches of tense and style are not great.  But ultimately it is about getting across how we both feel about this “thing” we are doing.  The sights and the people and what we are doing is one thing.  The changes to us as people is quite another.  So this an open letter from the heart rather than the head.  I hope it conveys more than just a review of “another” tourist site.

Categories: South East Asia Blog

DAM weather! But grey skies can’t TAKEAWAY brilliant China experience

WARNING:  THIS BLOG TALKS ABOUT PHLEGM AND SPITTING – LOOK AWAY NOW IF YOU ARE OF A NERVOUS DISPOSITION.

MARK: “Have you turned the heating on Joe?”  Sarah leant forward towards the microphone on our £150 Asus EeBook Laptop, straining to hear Joe’s reply on Skype. “No need” came the crackly response from Regent Way Frimley, “it’s been 18C, sunny and we’ve been wearing ‘T’ Shirts!”

Not the same here in China at the moment – and we were doing so so well!

For the first two weeks in the Peoples’ Republic, we’d had day after day of bright blue skies and temperatures in the mid to late 20Cs. The late Autumn rays a real tonic.

Sarah balancing a bouquet of flowers on her head in T Square Beijing when the sky was still blue..

Sarah balancing a bouquet of flowers on her head in T Square Beijing when the sky was still blue..

But then we moved south from Shanghai and started to encounter the grey skies which many parts of this country “enjoy” for 250 + days a year.  The temperature has still been around 20-23C but the smoggy/foggy atmosphere has been awful and seriously depressing. At one stage whilst riding a tandem with Sarah on the city walls of Xian I had to ask what the yellow thing in the sky was.

The pollution in the air has been horrific. I’d always laughed in the past at photos I’d seen on the Internet of Chinese people wandering around wearing silly white masks.  Now I walk around with a silly white protective mask that I bought @ B&Q Farnborough, back in August.  But my God I have needed it.

The smog was so bad in Chengdhu that Mark resorted to using a mask whilst writing the blog

The smog was so bad in Chengdhu that Mark resorted to using a mask whilst writing the blog

I’ve suffered from a head/chest cold for the last four weeks.  “Suffered” is my word, Sarah just tells me to “man up and get on with it”.  But my man flu cold has been made that much worse by the pollution in the atmosphere.  Every morning I “do a Chinese”.  Thick green phlegm stuff builds up overnight and has to be discharged.  Not nice.  But I can now understand why many Chinese men and women do spit – but struggle with where they do it.  The road/pavement is bad enough but the local sport in the south of the country seems to be to spit from some distance in to waste bins strategically placed in supermarkets and restaurants and often close to food and people eating.

The weather conditions are in part linked to the Chinese economic juggernaut.  70% of their energy is generated by burning poor quality coal at hundreds of local and regional power stations.  The emissions mix with the fog which is prevalent in many areas and due to the topography of the country, tends to sit over towns and cities for days as there is often limited wind to blow the polluted air away.  Chengdu a classic case in point with car headlights shining brightly on the murky streets at 3.00pm in the afternoon.

But it isn’t just belching power stations and micro-climates that causes this “pea souper”, reminiscent of ICI Wilton/Billingham on Teesside in the early 1970s.

We’ve just had the amazing experience of travelling in the Presidential Suite, gliding down the Yangtze River through the THREE GORGES on board the MS Victoria V.

Money talks – this £1 note equivalent depicts the entrance to the first of the “Three Gorges” (right)

Money talks – this £1 note equivalent depicts the entrance to the first of the “Three Gorges” (right)

By gum it’s nippy. Sarah standing at the front of the MS Victoria V – the limestone cliffs on either side are nearly 600ft high

By gum it’s nippy. Sarah standing at the front of the MS Victoria V – the limestone cliffs on either side are nearly 600ft high

We transferred to a small boat to explore the small gorges

We transferred to a small boat to explore the small gorges – the rain hammering down

The Chinese have built a massive 2km wide dam near Yishang.  This has raised the water level by over 100m, displacing tens of thousands of unfortunate locals who had no choice but to move out.  Local people I talked to, confirmed that the flooding and water level increase has changed weather patterns.  Grey skies are common and it also rains more.  Mess with nature and this is what you get methinks.

However despite the rain, it was a truly awe inspiring journey, down the World’s third largest river.  The £80 upgrade for four days allowed us to bask in luxury in a room four times the size of our fellow group members’ cabins!  I’d ask reception speculatively if it might be possible, having seen graphics on the internet of the Presidential Suite (PS) and the private deck at the front of the boat.  When the lady smiled and said yes and was only charging £80 quid, I bit her hand off.  I felt sure she had missed a zero off the end of the price and paid on the spot before she had the chance to change her mind.

Sarah relaxes in the PS by “doing her feet” whatever that means

Sarah relaxes in the PS by “doing her feet” whatever that means

Sarah entertains lesser mortals from D Deck – close to the engines – the people were nice enough though…

Sarah entertains lesser mortals from D Deck – close to the engines – the people were nice enough though…

The Suite came in to its own at 11.00pm on the final night, as we arrived at the Three Gorges Dam, 600km from our starting point at Chongqing.  We graciously (joke) allowed our Group Travellers to stand with us on our 15 metre wide private balcony as we entered the largest flight of man-made locks in the World – five of them.  It made Bingley ‘Five Rise’ look like something out of Lilliput in comparison.

Our boat was 6000 tons – pulling up next to a ship load of Yanks – banter from boat to boat ensued

Our boat was 6000 tons – pulling up next to a ship load of Yanks – banter from boat to boat ensued

This is, make no mistake an amazing man made structure.  And putting aside for one moment the fact that hundreds of thousands lost their homes, the eco-system has taken a massive hit and the local weather is now “all confused” you have to admire what the Chinese have done here.  Our local Guide claimed it was all to do with flood management, navigational aid and the provision of green power.  But the dam provides just 2% of China’s power requirement.  And when the weight of water causes an earthquake, I wouldn’t want to be one of the many millions down-stream, as it will make the “Dam Busters” look like a little rain shower in comparison.

This was the best shot of the dam we had – a model!

This was the best shot of the dam we had – a model!

Pity could not see the river lift that is shortly to commence operation. Boats up to 3000 tons can rise/fall 175 metres in less than 30 minutes

Pity could not see the river lift that is shortly to commence operation. Boats up to 3000 tons can rise/fall 175 metres in less than 30 minutes

Just one more day in China, before we arrive in Hong Kong.  And one more treat in store for me as we travel for three hours on TWO new “Bullet Trains” the first of which runs at 260kmph (163mph) and the second a slightly quicker 320kmph (200mph).  James Duckworth/Alastair Black/Richard Daw/Steve Elliott/Neil Barton/Phil Whitby – what about this as a potential RAT experience?  Even Sarah – who is now suffering from a cold AND a prolapsed/slipped disk is looking forward to this trip and the chance hopefully to see some blue sky.

Me, I’m just glad that the Chinese didn’t censor BBC Five Live’s commentary on the Mighty Boro’s win at Manchester United.  You see, every cloud has a silver lining…

STOP PRESS!  Sorry could not resist showing two shots from the train journey this afternoon…

Brilliant experience - we must build more railways - our B Train!

Brilliant experience – we must build more railways – our B Train!

Nearly at 320kph - the Chinese took pictures... not sure why

Nearly at 320kph – the Chinese took pictures… not sure why

Categories: China Blog

The photos you did not see first time around

MARK:  Just arrived in Hong Kong after a nine hour journey from China involving one bus, two bullet trains and two metros.  Wifi and MASTERS access now fully restored.

SORRY WE COULD NOT POST ORIGINALLY THE PHOTOS FOR THE BELOW BLOG…

https://masters20152016.com/2015/10/23/through-the-eyes-of-babes-warriors-and-cute-pandas/

So, we’ve decided to include them below as a series of postcards.  One more China blog to follow.

Cute - 146 times

Cute – 146 times

The role of Panda Handler has just been voted the best job in China....

The role of Panda Handler has just been voted the best job in China….

Red Pandas, really are cute

Red Pandas, really are cute

Smile please

Smile please

The single child policy has just been lifted - good news for this family

The single child policy has just been lifted – good news for this family

Cheeky!

Cheeky!

Nana please Mum

Nana please Mum

Very confident young lady

Very confident young lady

Budding artist

Budding artist

Funeral 1

Funeral 1

Funeral 2

Funeral 2

The eyes have it

The eyes have it

I had this done and I can recommend it

I had this done and I can recommend it

Wonder of the World

Wonder of the World

each one unique

Each one unique

The Chinese have the World economy sewn up

The Chinese have the World economy sewn up

The second tallest building (left) due to be complete in two months and the third - on the right which we scaled

The second tallest building (left) due to be complete in two months and the third – on the right which we scaled

 

Categories: China Blog

BUDDA (TEST) OF HOTELS – A “TAIL” OF MONKS AND MONKEYS

ADMIN – We are back – hope he brings me back an iPhone after all this?………….Click on Photos for larger image

But for those of you who want to see a “Cute” Panda, take a look at this shot. This baby is about two months old and is fed like a human baby – the handler even “burps” the baby by patting his back. Ahhh. Anyway, the Pandas visit seems a long time ago now. So onward we must write.

Cute

Cute

MARK: “So tonight we stay in Monastery”. I was only half listening to our Guide Carina, as we sped along in a little 16 seater bus at 110kph down the main highway from Chengdhu to the Leshan, somewhere in the middle of China.

That’s a nice name for a hotel I thought, with visions of Fountains Abbey flashing through my mind coupled with the sound of Cistercion Monks and Gregorian chanting.

“You’ll be sleeping with the Buddha”. Suddenly I was all ears, this wasn’t the name of our next hotel, but literally a Buddhist Monastery, complete with Monks on their pilgrimage, from the Tibetan Border. The Baoguo Monsatery it transpired, was going to be our home for the next two nights, at the foot of sacred Mount Emei.

Three hours later the bus screeched to a halt in front of a large Pagoda, two Monks “guarding” the entrance. We clambered off not know what we were letting ourselves in for as wafts of powerful incense and “joss sticks” drifted towards us in the gloomy twilight air. As we walked through the giant wooden door, we entered a courtyard, trees all around, a giant “urn” in the centre and the site of a golden Buddha with worshippers kneeling in front of “their God”. I felt uncomfortable, walking past with my front and back packs securely strapped, totally at odds with this religious shrine.

Wafts of joss sticks everywhere

Wafts of joss sticks everywhere

The first of three courtyards

The first of three courtyards

No time to think though, as our single file snake of weary travellers headed round a corner into a second courtyard, a number of worshipping tourists coming the opposite way down the steps heading for the exit. The Monastery was about to close to members of the general public. Up some more steps, past an inverted swasticka created out of what appeared to be Chinese Coca-Cola Cans and then wow! Seven giant Buddhas, each about 30ft high looking down on us as we reached the inner sanctum and our “dormitory” bedrooms.

We had to walk past these guys every time we went to the shower

We had to walk past these guys every time we went to the shower

Beautiful Buddhas

Beautiful Buddhas

Bizarre inner courtyard and just outside our bedroom 1616

Bizarre inner courtyard and just outside our bedroom 1616

G Travel are smart people. They had identified that subject to availability (if not many pilgrims were in town) the Monastery would offer FREE OF CHARGE, beds for travellers like us, to sample life as a Buddhist for 48 hours. Barry Sutlieff, this place had your name written all over it – Buddha Heaven.

Carina initially split the group in to male and female (4 men and 12 females), for            sleeping arrangements, but then Canadian Court, whispered in a loud hiss “Mark get yourself over here…..” You don’t mess with 6ft 6” 240lb blokes, so I followed as did Sarah. Court and his wife Linda had managed to find a five bed dormitory room and he thought that it would be a good idea if we stayed in the “west Wing”. There seemed to be no objections so we plonked our bags and looked around the most austere and basic “bedroom” you have ever seen. Five rock hard single beds. A sideboard thing, four bedside tables and a flat screen TV that did not work. The room had not been decorated for years. The filthy curtains hid five broken pains of windows. A cockroach lived in the corner, along with a few Mossys. Two Chinese prints of stallions in full flight were hung between a large NO SMOKING sign. We’d arrived, but the adventure was just beginning.

Not quite De Vere Venues standards

Not quite De Vere Venues standards

“Patrick” our local Guide, showed us the bowl where we could wash in an outside courtyard – if you looked up, the roof was in fact the sky, with Jupiter twinkling in the inky blue last throws of daylight.

“Any toilets?” Sarah asked. A fair question. “Arrrrre yessssss Saaaarrrrraaaaahhh, round corner.” Patrick was right, 50 yards round the corner were some communal “squat” toilets for men and women – although Sarah only discovered they were designated single sex toilets a day later when she wondered why the Monks were looking at her strangely. She’d be in the wrong side! No wonder these Monks who normally show little facial emotion were smiling every time they saw her around the Monastery!

Mark meets Monks as Sarah looks on

Mark meets Monks as Sarah looks on

Monk down time…. Chilling outside of our bedroom window

Monk down time…. Chilling outside of our bedroom window

So the toilets were relatively near to our room, but the communal showers were some 200 metres away, past the seven Buddhas and two other shrines, at the end of a long corridor. They were a bit like showers you had at school, privacy not great which was a problem for some of our party. The best bit though was when Court and I decided to “take a shower” which could only take place AT NIGHT between 6.00-9.00pm when there was hot water. Court strips to his shorts, takes off his shirt and puts a towel around his neck. We head off, me with my towel and a bar of soap in my hand. “Better not drop that in the shower Buddy” Court smiles…. I got his meaning a few moments later, just as there were shrieks of laughter from some “lady Monks/Worshippers/Followers” at the entrance to the shower block. Clearly they had never seen a giant semi naked white man coming towards them wearing golf shorts and little else. I tried to explain that he was a man mountain God from the wilds of Canada but there was something lost in the sign language translation. The showers were however very good and were similar to the ones that Lex Hughes my old De Vere Venues colleague had described to me at his former school, Ampleforth College, that also a home to Monks!

Showered up and smelling sweet, we had dinner in the local town, before all agreeing to meet in a open air corridor, close to seven Buddhas, outside of the Dorms where the rest of our group were staying. Numerous bottles of Great Wall Red Wine were consumed, before lights out at 10.00pm. Would we survive the night?

These two really frightened me at 0200 as I headed to the loo.

These two really frightened me at 0200 as I headed to the loo.

Smelling sweet after the shower

Smelling sweet after the shower

Next morning at 5.30 am, through the semi-haze of sleep I heard the chiming every ten seconds of a bell, struck by a “Mini Monk”. I had to investigate. Quickly throwing on some trousers I headed out of our room by myself, past the seven Buddhas and down some slippery stone steps towards the sound of chanting. I peered through a wooden lattice window just like a naughty schoolboy trying not to get caught. Behind the screen were the Monks – all men on one side and a few ladies on the right, positioned away from the main event. I watched for a while, but decided that I was intruding on their private worship and so went in search of hot water to make some much needed coffee. The urn at the end of the Courtyard was hissing steam. Boy did that sachet of Nescafe taste good.

The main reason for staying in a Chinese Monastery in addition to the unique experience was so that we could be close to the beautiful Mount Emei a large mountain range popular with local Chinese visitors.

The weather was not good as we set off at 9.00am for our ten mile hike. The rain was heavy as grey cloud quickly enveloped the higher peaks. We were disappointed that the rain had come but quickly had to remind ourselves that this was only the fourth day of rain that we had in 52 days….

The rain did not dampen our spirits although four of the group decided to stay behind which was fair enough. They hadn’t the kit and you needed it. Clad in our North Face Gortex jackets we were ready for anything and ready to climb to the second highest peak from an elevation of about 1000m to just under 2000m via two valleys. We were in search of Tibetan Stub Monkeys (Stub as they don’t have tails), who had a reputation! And my God we soon found out what for pretty soon!

After a couple of sodden hours, Sarah and I headed off with three other members of our party to explore some of the side valley, which was described by one as very similar to the mountainous area of New Zealand’s South Island. We traversed swing rope bridges over deep ravines, the rain and sweet corn making the wooden surface treacherous to say the least. Yes, I did say sweet corn, although thought nothing of it at the time, as we headed about 100ft up the other side of the valley to wait for the remaining members of the party.

Suddenly a monkey appeared, then four or five others of various ages and sizes. Small ones first, then slightly larger ones with big whiskered “old boys” bringing up the rear. One climbed up Sarah’s leg and was promptly beaten off by a bamboo stick. We watched the monkey troup head off down towards the bridge where by now the rest of the group had arrived.

I then clocked it. This was an ambush scenario involving the Monkeys “aided” by local Chinese, all armed with sticks. Monkey business!

The Monkeys had followed a couple of Chinese ladies onto the bridge, following it would appear the trail of food – nuts, corn etc. As our party came across the swinging bridge, the monkeys pounced. Carina our guide had four on her head and body, Demi one of our young fellow travellers was also jumped. The Chinese ladies started beating them off, asking for money at the same time…. What a surprise. But this was no laughing matter. The Monkeys were vicious, scratching and pawing. I ran like hell with my stick down the hill. These guys were under serious attack. Thirty seconds later I arrived as the last monkey had legged it. Carina and Demi were in a state of shock.

Under attack these monkeys were viscious!!

Under attack these monkeys were viscious!!

The 12 members of the party quickly regrouped and we aborted the hike and headed to a Medical Centre, which just happened to be a few hundred metres away. Both, girls were checked out and because of their injuries, were given Rabies jabs there and then. Suddenly we were pleased to have spent £180 each on Rabies jabs – although we had never expected monkeys to be the potential cause of what can be a life threatening condition. I later asked Demi what the cost had been and she said £10…. Cheap at the price, but still glad that we had invested in this “optional” jab before we had left the UK. She on the other hand has to find a vaccine on Day 7 (when we are in Hong Kong) and Day 21 (somewhere in Vietnam where she will be then).

 

So we hope you enjoyed the tail/tale of two Monk(eys). One a quite gentle breed, the other less so. This was an unforgettable experience and one we will remember for some time.

Admin – Hope you like the music below?

 

Categories: China Blog

THROUGH THE EYES OF BABES, WARRIORS AND “CUTE” PANDAS

Note from Admin – The Chinese have managed to block all of M&S photos at the moment  – so please click on the music above whilst you read Mark’s blog – you may have seen me on the news in Manchester trying to bring the situation up with the Chinese President, but his bodyguards grabbed me by the prawn crackers before I could get near! – ITS A CHINA CRISIS!

Here we go………..

MARK: APOLOGIES TO RAY CROYDON IN ADVANCE – I HAVE MUCH TO WRITE AND SO PLEASE FEEL FREE TO JUST LOOK AT THE PHOTOS!

Lucky thirteen! Well Court and I hope it is. I’ve just turned to my new Canadian chum and told him that this is my 13th flight since we left the UK. He laughed and with a wide grin said, “well you better get on and write that blog real quick then…” Thanks for that Court!

So I am typing at speed, hoping to upload the copy on to “The Cloud” which today, is handily placed a few meters away to my left, out of the window of this China Eastern Airbus A320. If something does happen, you will be the first to hear about it. Just 21 more flights to go before we return home next May.

Anyway, I read this morning on the BBC news website just before we left Xian (home of the Terracotta Warriors) that the Chinese President is in London town. The “Big Potato” – as our Chinese Guide Carina calls him – is on a State Visit to see “Chairman Cameron”, with the RED carpet fully rolled out!

Whichever Political Party is in power, the UK Government must talk with and understand the Chinese people if we as a nation are to prosper and survive. China is powerful. That’s an understatement. It is/will be the next main World Power for many years and is full of innovation, big projects and I have to say really interesting people.

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And yet there is this strange dichotomy. On the one hand China is a very regimented, security conscious nation. Strict rules rule. If you stray off the beaten track around Government Buildings and monuments, prepare for a loud whistle and a shaking of fists – at best. The Army is everywhere (it seems) supported visibly by various police detachments – ranging from traffic cops through to fully armed riot SWOT Teams. They certainly miss the finesse of HM Officers trained by Ian Prescott.

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Conversely and somewhat bizarrely officialdom sits alongside parks, public land and open spaces, where anything can and does happen. Pensioners strut their stuff to the Bee Gees singing Tragedy, lone men sing by themselves as they walk along the pavement – many with very good Baritone voices – David Mortimer/Neil Barton take note. And then there are groups of teenagers playing loud rock music, all at odds in many ways with what you think a totalitarian state would be like. Oh and I must not forget the Karaoke microphones that are located all over each city, where you can step up and perform at any time.

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Many times I’ve thought, “you wouldn’t get away with that in England.” Here, it seems, so long as you are sensible, people are left to the own devices, be it flying a kite or seemingly being as “high as kites” on local herbal substances.

Oops!! That is that is the head flight attendant telling me to turn off my laptop as we are ten minutes from landing. See you later, I HOPE.

TWO DAYS LATER ONBOARD A BUS AS WE SPEED TOWARDS A DATE WITH THE GIANT BUDHA – WELL we didn’t crash in fact we had the best landing that I have had on this tour so far. The Captain – Mr Ding Yung Huan – put the plane down on a sixpence in what was a text book landing despite the fog. I was well impressed and asked to go in to the cockpit after we had landed to have a word with the main man. I explained to Captain Huan that I’d flown Emirates, Jet, Indigo, Buddha Air and Air China amongst others in recent weeks and that his landing on the southern runway was the best by far. As I shook his hand he asked if he could quote me for their next edition of their inflight magazine!

Enough. Back to the blog proper. I was waffling on about how the Chinese “play hard”. Well that’s just half the story, because they work damn hard as well and that is clear to see everywhere you look.

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The Chinese are incredibly innovative, they’re industrious and as a nation have a clear direction/focus, which in my opinion is to educate, develop and then….. well, history will tell us what “well” is. I think it could go one of two ways. Looking into my crystal ball, it’ll all depend ultimately on who ends up in charge. They could as a nation use their creative assets and work in partnership with the rest of the World and then we all live happily ever after. But if the dragon’s tail is pulled and hard liners move in, then watch out for the fire that will inevitably follow, simply because of the size of China’s population.

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Present estimates put the population at a whopping 1.4 billion – 20% of the humans on this planet. The one-child policy still exists with around 40% subject to the restriction. According to internet sources, circa 53% of couples are allowed to have a second child if their first child is a girl. But the latest male/female stats are alarming, with some Chinese provinces having sex ratios of more than 130 males to just 100 females. This is largely down to the fact that there is a traditional preference for sons and the widespread practice of arranging for sons to take care of their elderly parents. Old People’s homes do exist, but largely the responsibility falls to family members.

There did however seem to be NO “lady” shortage when we have been out and about. The “tradition” of having your main wedding photos taken up to three months before the actual wedding ceremony is very popular. One night we counted over 50 ceremonies taking place. Basically you hire a dress and a photographer – around £1000 as a starter – and then stand in front of something interesting/arty for that all important shot. Think I prefer the Shanghai skyline to the graffiti wall personally…

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The Graffiti backdrop above is a bit ugly, but you can’t say that of the children. I’m certainly no softie when it comes to babies and young children, even though my Mother has told me I was one once. But I have to admit to being “mesmerised” by the many little Chinese faces I have come across. So here’s my opportunity to share one or two photos with you. I did, I hasten to add, “ask permission” of their parents, so no need to report me… – ADMIN – OH No – paragraph is a bit pants without the pic! LOL

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Kids are kids anywhere you go, but the one thing I’ve noticed is the confidence of children aged between around three and say six/seven. I’ve heard young girls sing songs from the Sound of Music, others act and perform. There was even one young lady sitting with her Mum on the parapet of a bridge flamboyantly creating pen and ink sketches of Shanghai Pagodas and doing a roaring trade selling them for about £10 a go. Enterprise and confidence of the young – love it. – ADMIN – JUST USE YOUR IMAGINATION!

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But it isn’t just the youngsters who are creative in making a few bob. The latest fad in Chengdhu is to clean people’s ears out with long pieces of wire. You sit down on a couch, close your eyes and then a man with a mask and head torch pokes the inside of your ear until he hits your semi-circular canal. He then pulls the wire out with a whole lot of gunge. Beats syringing I guess.

Although I never tried it’s meant to be very relaxing. I had never heard of such a thing before and feel sure that this new fad will be over ear in the UK in the very near future. Or I guess it could become one of those things that is simply “ear today and gone tomorrow”, although the Chinese do wax lyrical about the benefits. ADMIN – TRY NOT THIS TIME!

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One group of Chinese who also benefit from ear cleaning are the thousands of Terracotta Warriors, who were positioned in the tomb of Qin Shi Huang, the first Emperor of China to protect him in his after-life. It is a remarkable story all round really when you consider that local farmers in the mid 1970s discovered what is a huge underground Palace, when they started boring a new well. Now in two “giant aircraft hangers” the size of Wembley Arena, archaeologists lovingly restore the Warriors to their former glory, ensuring not only their ears are clean, but their whole body. We were stunned by this place. The size, the history, the thought that literally thousands of years ago the Chinese had even perfected the art of chromium plating, later discovered by the west in the 1930s. Amazing that just like the Egyptians they had once ruled the World….. now coming back full circle. But perhaps the most mind blowing thing was the fact that each Warrior was uniquely created. There is not one the same with facial expressions that testify to the fact. Brilliant. And a worthy 8TH WONDER OF THE WORLD following, York Minster, The Yorkshire Dales and of course Peasholme Park in Scarborough.

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We’ve had a brilliant time here in China and there is still just over a week before we move on. So many sites, so many things we’ve seen including The Great Wall and the Teraccotta Warriors to name but two. But no trip of course would be complete without visiting the Pandas. Ahhhhhh.

There are 1500 left in the wild, but the nearest we will probably get is visiting them as we did on the outskirts of Chenngdhu at the Giant Panda Breeding Research Base, this morning (Wednesday 21 October).

I ran a “silent sweepstake” with myself as we went through the turnstiles as to how many “cutes” I would hear in two hours from our 16 strong group. But even I said “cute” three times as we saw baby pandas (twins a few days old), red pandas and numerous giant pandas all living in the semi-wild of this bamboo paradise. In total I heard 146 cutes by the way. ADMIN – IMAGINATION AGAIN

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A very moving experience as were their eyes.

In fact, after writing close to two thousand words (sorry Ray), I now realise that the common denominator with all of these observations are eyes. I hope you see where I’m coming from.

My grateful thanks to Russ Baker for spending a lot of his time compiling this blog due to Chinese restrictions on blog posting. Russ – I owe you a Chinese Takeaway when I get back. ADMIN – (PRAWN CRACKERS MORE LIKE!)

Onwards now to spend time in a Budhist Monastery for a few days, before heading down the Yangtze River on a cruise.

 

 

Categories: China Blog

Cracking China Chums

MARK: I’m a shy person. Ok, so that’s a lie (really – Administrator LOL!!!!), but I do from time to time get nervous when encountering groups of people in a social situation. Professionally no problem, give me a room of 250 strangers and happy days, network city!

For the last six weeks it’s just been me and Sarah. Indeed for 7 days we were the only white faces around and conversations, with the exception of Garima my “Indian Sister, were really limited. Surprisingly we are both still getting on, which is not bad, seeing we’ve not left each others sight for more than 5 minutes during that time. It must be love – MADNESS!

So welcome to China and our new “friends” for three weeks, travellers who like us, have booked “Essential China”, through Canadian Tour Operator G Adventures.

We’d arrived early in Beijing from Nepal and so had three days to explore the city and get to know it a little, before the tour started.

MB boogying with the locals – a large crowd soon gathered

MB boogying with the locals – a large crowd soon gathered

But on the afternoon prior to the “Welcome Meeting” at 6.00pm we both at the same time said “wonder what the others will be like….” We did not have long to wait as people soon started to gather in the Lobby of the Chongwenmen Hotel, everyone eyeing up everyone else.

First to rock up was a six foot, six inch Canadian giant. “Hi” he said. “My names Court just like a basketball court”, he smiled and promptly got in a bone crunching handshake, before I had chance to do the same. He’s a salesman I thought to myself and sure enough he was. A Director of a Real Estate Agency from Vancouver, complete with white socks. A nice bloke, you could see straight away – full of wise cracks and married to Linda, an equally lovely person who at 4ft 10” was nearly two feet smaller. For those of you who know Alastair and Sheilagh Black, there are many similarities in terms of stature.

We later had some great laughs with Court around Tiananmen Square when Chinese men wanted photos next to the two giants…. Yes I am a giant too, and not just around my waist.

Big Boy Court – a celeb’ around town and nicely dealt with a pick pocket, with a powerful push when he “felt a tickle”

Big Boy Court – a celeb’ around town and nicely dealt with a pick pocket, with a powerful push when he “felt a tickle”

Tiananmen Square MINUS tanks

Tiananmen Square MINUS tanks

Anyway, back to the Group brief….. Carina (our wonderful Chinese Guide – a 23+ year old Chinese national who studied English at University) beckoned us to a conference room for further information as the noise in the lobby became deafening as everyone talked over each other in their excitement of the first meeting. In we all marched and sat ‘U’ shape around dark wooden tables. De Vere Venues, I had come home…

Very soon we realised that we were all very similar. Everyone was a traveller, not a tourist! Four Canadians, three Aussies, five Brits an Irish lady and three Americans. Two of the party had come overland by the Trans-Siberian Railway and had loads of interesting stories. One lady Renee (mid 60s) has been on the road from her home in Carmel, California for 8 years – yes EIGHT YEARS. The Aussies – Sheree and Linda – had been about a bit and we soon realised could sniff out alcohol from at least 200 metres. Debbie, another Young Brit (22) was on an extended trip like us, planning as she went along. Yes – these were our sort of people. And, as we entered our passport and “next of kin” details on a scrappy bit of paper, barriers quickly broke down…

Next morning, bright and early at 0715 we all assembled in the hotel foyer for our first trip to the Great Wall of China, at a place called Mutianyu. A 17 seater coach pulled up outside the hotel and we all scrambled on, me and Sarah like “naughty school children” on the back seat, with Jan (58) a fun, former school teacher, complete with purple hair and a nose ring. Widowed for 8 years, Jan we discovered came from the Wirral and was clearly one of those people up for anything. She must have been, having shared a sleeping compartment with five Mongolian men for three days on the Trans-Siberian. More about Jan in a minute!

We had a wonderful five mile walk, but quickly broke ranks with the rest of the group as the Bailey’s, lead by Sarah, quickly decided we could walk to 15 different Towers, the rest were left trailing in our wake. The Wall is truly Great – another tick on the bucket list.

M and S pace setting

M and S pace setting

Truly stunning a must see

Truly stunning a must see

After a group lunch in a superb restaurant which produced the bestest Peking Duck we have ever had, it was time for a little nap, in preparation for a big night out, for what was described by one of our party as “disgusting eating”. The group, made its way on busses and the metro to an area of Beijing where anything quite literally goes when it comes to eating.

The pungent smell of sewage, sweet noodles and animal offal wafted down a small brightly lit street, neon signs and red lanterns everywhere. Suddenly we came across scorpions still wiggling on skewers, large crickets/grasshoppers that looked like something out of “I’m a celebrity get me out of here” and some huge beetle things which resembled a cross between a pupa and a cockroach.

Big Mouth Bailey, mentioned how he had been given a list of “things to eat” by his supposed friends – see pre tour blog for details – and so that was it. I was first up to eat a scorpion, the cricket and then the “beetle”. I was joined by Jan and Linda the Aussie who were also game for a laugh. We each bought a round of critters. A skewer of four scorpions cost around a £1.

Crunch! I went for it, the scorpion going down the inside of my throat, lightly toasted and with a bit of chicken flavour. One nil! The others then had a go and we made our way along the different stalls. However, I drew the line on the lizard, star fish and sea horses as I did not want to be running to the open sewer, sorry toilet on board the 17 hour overnight train from Beijing to Shanghai.

The three Musketeers about to eat scorpions – Jan centre, with Linda

The three Musketeers about to eat scorpions – Jan centre, with Linda

Lizard and star fish are popular with locals

Lizard and star fish are popular with locals

Yes I did eat them all!

Yes I did eat them all!

So no ill effects, which was just as well as we made our way to the Railway station. As for what happened next, well some things just have to stay on tour. Suffice to say we had a brilliant journey in a six berth sleeper carriage, with Don and Theresa (two mid 60 year olds from Canada) and Mr Wong and Leon, two Chinese nationals. The fire water flowed that’s all you need to know..

Taken from the top bunk

Taken from the top bunk

Sarah looking remarkably awake after just two hours, sleeping with two Chinese men

Sarah looking remarkably awake after just two hours, sleeping with two Chinese men

Yep, we are very lucky. A good group. Only two Alpha males and no cliques, everyone talking, sharing and getting on….

We’re in Shanghai now, a small place of just 20 million inhabitants. Our thanks again to Russ Baker for posting this and for uploading the graphics, via Skype as we cannot transfer files any other way.

Isn't that Mark Bailey from Radio Frimley - 'Mum!'

Isn’t that Mark Bailey from Radio Frimley? – ‘Mum!’

Categories: China Blog

CENSORED! BUT Chinese cannot TAKEAWAY MASTERS from its public!

MARK: Greetings from Beijing. Or should I say Lowton, near Warrington in Cheshire.

Yes Cheshire, because this post comes thanks to my “Administrator” Russ Baker, Brother-in-Law and MASTERS supremo.

The reason? It’s down to Chinese censorship!

We have the best wifi signal for 6 weeks, but our friends have “restricted” access to certain sites.

We CAN get BBC news, TripAdvisor, Radio 2 streaming Steve Wright in the Afternoon and Barclays, Tesco and one or two dodgy sites. We CAN’T get Facebook, Google or Radio Frimley Park. Yes Malcolm, the Chinese have banned me listening to you and the rest of the guys…

The other site which the Chinese seem not to like is MASTERS20152016.com

I can just about see the site online, but to quote Ray Croydon – the site is a bit “wibbly wobbly.” You can see random lines of text and photos but in no order and there is no way that I can upload copy or photos. In fact sending emails with attachments is another problem and hence NO photos for this blog post, which is a shame as we have some cracking shots.

So, thanks to Russ, I have sent the copy by email and he has uploaded and I believe put on a graphic – CENSORED!

 

 

EARLY OBSERVATIONS OF CHINA

We could write an entire blog on how we nearly didn’t get here. That would take too long. Suffice to say, two days before we were due to leave Kathmandu (Nepal), our flight was cancelled due to the fuel shortage. Rebooked on Air China, that was cancelled (according to the airline website) on the morning we were due to leave! Then surprisingly a giant AIRBUS A330 (200 series – 340 SEATS), managed to land and Sarah and I together with just 140 passengers got on. It had flown from Chengdhu in the middle of China, full of fuel, limited the passenger numbers out and back so it could take off on the short Kathmandu airstrip and therefore did not need the non-existent fuel in Nepal as it had enough to get back.

Never have we been so pleased to see an aircraft! And when it was in the air, it was “chink-chink” and cheers as we had our first glass of wine in 5 weeks.

But we had another treat. It was a mixed blessing as the day before we had invested in two £140 seats on a Buddha Air “Mountain Flight” around Everest. That was superb – a blog in itself.

However, as we were toasting our escape, the captain announced Everest was “on our left”. MY GOD what a view we had this time. Not from one side, but from both the Nepalese and Chinese (desert) side for at least 10 minutes at a height of 35,000ft (6,000 ft above Everest.) Sarah looked at me and said “we could have saved a few quid” and then we both thought “Nahhhh”, how many people see this amazing site twice in 24 hours and from the Chinese side as well. We were and are grateful.

Anyway, enough about Mountains. We’ve been in Beijing, China now for two days and have some quick observations of our time here so far.

 

SPITTING – NATIONAL PAST TIME

AAAAHHHHHHHGGGGGGUUUUUSSSSSSP – that’s the sound of a Chinese man, no sorry men as they all do it. A nice gargle at the back of the throat and then the flemmy/spitty stuff is launched through a car window, on to your feet as you are walking along or directly in to an airline sick bag only for some unsuspecting soul on the next flight to have an unwanted surprise. YUK.

 

EVERYONE HAS A PASSAT – the Germans are sending them here!

I have been tracking the VW crisis and glad I sold my motor three months ago! But, I now know where they are being sent. China! Everyone has one, probably because nobody gives a damn about smog and pollution. That said, we have been blessed with bright sunshine and blue skies and “cool” temperatures of 20-23C. The military parade has just ended and obviously the cloud seeding continues to work. By the way Steve Elliott: Can you give Sarah’s KA a spin please as it’s been a few weeks?

 

VERY VERY CLEVER PEOPLE

China will be the World leaders within 20 years. My prediction, and interesting when you think that in 1860 the British and the French combined to destroy most of central Beijing and all the temples… enough said. But these guys are smart. How about, being able to watch adverts projected on to the walls of tube/subway tunnels! They are so straight they can do it by series of giant projectors and monitors. Very entertaining. Plus you can make calls on their subway, surf the net, watch TV and all in air conditioned comfort. Boris are you listening???

 

THE CARPENTERS ARE ALWAYS PLAYED IN LIFTS

My friend Mr James Duckworth, loves the Carpenters and always says Karen was taken from us all too early and that she is sadly missed. Well James, you need an Iron Mountain contract over here as every lift you go in seems to play Carpenters tracks. We are in a hotel with 15 floors and typically – I have tried it – you need to go up and down three times to hear the full track. Worth doing after some of the so called “music” you hear and I must say very uplifting for the soul.

 

DEBBIE BARTON – POTENTIAL NEW SIDELINE FOR YOUR BUSINESS

They have some superb Palaces and Parks here. The best so far has been the “Temple of Heaven”. Away from the temples and gardens you will find groups of people aged between 70-90, dancing to tracks including Boney M, ABBA and the Pointer Sisters (I’m so excited). They bop along, strut their stuff and have a great time, keeping fit, socialising and generally have a laugh. I joined in – surprise that – and was soon performing in front of an audience of about 250 people who thought I was John Travolta. Women (80 years +) swooned, men watched in admiration and Sarah after taking a couple of snaps, made a swift exit. Debbie, how about a similar gig in Camberley High Street or Frimley Green Rec’?

SHE JUMPED IN THE AIR FOR A 40P TIP

You don’t need to tip here. Nice, as it saves on our budget. But we did leave a 40 pence tip to the kind waitress in the Noodle Bar. She had been very helpful trying to understand our sign language. When she realised we had tipped, she literally jumped in the air and ran round the restaurant waving the 4 notes (40p) in the air. She was happy – so were we.

 

STARTED THE EATING TEST

Before we left for the trip, I blogged a list of food that people had requested I eat….this ranged from parts of a pigs anatomy to locusts. Richard Daw, John Hodson, Alastair Black – I’ve not forgotten. So, I thought I would get in the mood with a little bit of Liver and some duck skin, leaving the tripe stuff, offal and some smelly chicken feet for Day 2. But my goodness, I nearly threw up on the liver, which was glupey and full of intestines. The smell was akin to a sewer and the colour that of….. well make that bit up yourself. So headed off for a Macdonald’s Big Breakfast which was great, but Peking Duck for breakfast was a little strange.

 

Well that’s it for now. Can we both thank you for your personal emails, Skype calls/messages, comments on the site, and the conversations on What’sapp. We really appreciate them ‘cause it can get lonely now and again. Hopefully more to come after we visit the Great Wall and Pandas assuming we survive the three overnight train journeys which are each 15-17 hours in length.

Categories: China Blog

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